![]() There are true 120V adapters that are manufactured for 15A and 20A outlets. But I think it would have to fake a 60Amp 240V adapter (maybe, read further). My guess is the EVSE TT-30 adapter might be able to trick the UMC (which tells the Vehicle) to pull 24 Amps at 120V. If the 240V voltage drops 50% it will pull 50% of the current. If the voltage drops (from its theoretical setting) you will see the current drop. The car does not regulate current to a theoretical spec. I didn't realize they also had a TT-30 UMC adapter (which I'm sure we both agree would be ideal). You're still going on that mistaken idea that half the voltage means it pulls half the current.įirst the link I provided from EVSE was a TT-30 to 14-50 "adapter". That would try to pull 48A and trip the breaker. ![]() They take it apart and take the plug off of it, but they preserve the temperature sensor, and the chip that sends the car the official signal to tell it that 24A is the proper limit. So for a TT-30 they are going to build, they are starting from a 30A plug type, probably the 14-30. With the EVSEAdapters parts that they build now, they buy official Tesla adapter plugs that match the amps of what they are going to build for. Using half the voltage or double the voltage will not change the amps at all. It looks and acts like a real adapter to the UMC. The EVSE one does, because it includes the little chip from the original official Tesla part that they cannibalize to build theirs. You're right, that most of those simple ones from other places that are just wire remapping don't do that. You're usually very on top of this, so maybe this is a brain fart, but not much of this is making sense. It's kind of unnecessary risks since there is a better version of adapter available now. But those don't tell the car to proper current limit, so you would have to remember to manually dial it down, so I don't really recommend those. So you can find some of these kinds of adapters that are specifically marked for EV charging that wire it differently inside in an "improper" way to put the 120V and ground across those two hot1 and hot2 pins to make it work. An RV is only looking for 120V connections from either side to ground anyway, so that's fine-just less total amps to work with.īut an EV charging unit is trying to read a voltage difference across hot1 to hot2, and when they are hooked up to the same wire, there is 0V, so it just sits there doing nothing. So those pigtail adapters take the 120V hot line from a TT-30 outlet in the pedestal and put it on BOTH "hot1" and "hot2" of the 14-50 receptacle end. They just have a lot of 120V loads that they need to spread out across two different circuits, so they don't overload something. RVs are not actually trying to use 240V, which was a surprise to me when I learned it. It will automatically announce the appropriate 24A limit to the car too.Īny of these kinds of 14-50 to TT-30 adapter plugs you find in RV supply or camping supply places just will not work for electric car charging because they are wired the wrong way for what an EV points out the problem. We had to do workarounds and such years ago, but this is 2020 now, and you can just buy the perfect almost official looking TT-30 adapter from EVSEAdapters, and you're good to go. TT-30P to NEMA 14-50R Adapter for EV Charging at Campgrounds – EVSE Adapters So it might just work and be fairly safe. ![]() I think it will pull a full 20 Amp at 120V (I think). ![]() Wait, a "normal" 14-50 (50Amp) at half voltage might actually be ok. ![]() But they really should make it a 30 Amp Socket not 14-50, risky you pull to much load on the 30 Amp outlet. Won't be a huge difference between 20Amp 120V and 30Amp 120V anyway, both pretty slow. The RV 30 amp should be grounded fine and perfectly safe. He can certainly do is a 20Amp 120V UMC adapter. I don't think it cares about Voltage, it does care about voltage drops over time but I don't think it cares about absolute voltage across its "load". It might see that one hot "leg" is grounded though and barf. This keeps an unplugged plug from being “hot” due to the other plug being energized. The plugs are fully molded and come with sealing collars for use in wet environments.I'm not sure, but if you feed 120V across the 30Amp UMC Plug it might run ok (that's all the 120V UMC adapters are doing). To protect against shock hazard and reverse polarity, a special circuit does not allow current to flow until both plugs are connected properly. Having trouble finding 50A service? Create 50A service using two 30A connections.Ī reverse Y adapter allows you to draw 125V/250V AC current from two 30A outlets. ![]()
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